Late Model (Super VS Pro) questions..SOMEONE PLEASE HELP

[victory10]

So, I understand the pro late model deal as its 604 crate and some spec motor & I am pretty familiar with that stuff but any info there would be appreciated as well if I am missing something.

My issue is with the super late stuff as I am moving down there first of the year & keep struggling with this whole 5 different motor rule thing and ANY/ALL info from anyone with knowledge of all the motor rules would be awesome.

1. The super lates allow a 9 to 1 aluminum or steel head, correct?

2. Or a 362 or less steel head motor that can be 12 to 1 but flat top pistons and no roller cams...correct?

3. If you go with the 9 to 1, do the pistons have to be flat top or is that just with the 362 or less steel head rule or is there no rule on flat top pistons at all?

4. Secondly, what is the cam rules (solid or roller) for the 9 to 1? from what I am reading it sounds like roller for the 9 to 1 but solid for the steel head motor but need some clarification on that to be sure?

5. I also read about these sealed super motors & I am wondering what the difference is in them versus the 9 to 1 or the steel head 362?

6. What is the most common of the options used by the majority of the super late teams?

7. Can the 9 to 1 or 362 steel head motors run/compete/win against the sealed super motors?

8. I am soooooo confused with the motor options/rules for late models down there that I cannot even decide what to get for a super late deal. I have a super good 604 for the pro late stuff but I have been told to not even waste my time tryin to run that with the super lates because of a rpm rule but any thoughts or opinions on that would be appreciated as well.

9. Pro versus Super, What is the best one to run for count? Where all do the run the pro lates as I dont see them scheduled much anywhere but orlando and new smyrna as far as weekly racing goes.

My plan has been to have both a crate and a super late motor but just cannot figure out these rules, whats allowed with this versus that and what the best option is so I do not waste time and money getting something that will not compete.

Posts on here or private messages on ANY/ALL info would be greatly appreciated as I am heading down there the first of the year and would love to have things all in order motor wise before getting there. Please, just want info on the stuff not a debate on how messed up the rules are as that, to me, is already very obvious.

thanks in advance

[Rick Williams]

go to www.floridaunitedpromoterslatemodel series.com see the rules section, these are the rules for the series as well as most of the FL tracks. Please feel free to contact us for more info.

Rick Williams
FL United Promoters Series

[MJM10]

It sort of depends where you are going to run the car. A 604 will not be competitive in a super class down here, with the exception of maybe Auburndale which is a 1/4 mile. You are better off running that in the Pro class, which gets almost as good car counts as the supers, sometimes better depending on which track you are at.

There are really only three options for the supers that will be competitive..one is an aluminium head 9:1, you have to run a 390 carb on it which evens it out with the others. two is a steel head motor, as high as 12:1 I believe, but with the steel heads you can run a 750 carb. 3 is the sealed super spec motor (not to be confused with a crate motor), these are made by hamner, mgunegill, not sure what progressive's is but I know they make one too. In talking to a lot of people recently the sealed spec motors are the way to go as far as bang for your buck, and you can be competetive with them just about everywhere. From what I understand these three motors are all competitive with one another...I just had a steel head motor built and my numbers off the dyno are about the same as the sealed spec motors. I have heard claims of 9:1's that are making well into the 600hp (625-650) range, but on who's dyno, and has anyone seen it, could be BS, could not, could be cheating, who knows. I would recomend the spec motor...I talked to a lot of people at the snowball Derby and that seems to be the way to go, unless you have so much money you want to drop $60K on an insane 9:1. I think for the spec motor Progressive and McGunegill are around $18K and Hamner is slightly higher.

See the rule book for the rest of the specifics, but thats the way I understand it. Where do you plan on racing and where are you coming from?

[Circledude]

I recommend you figure what track you plan to run and look at their rules. For the money the spec sealed motor is probably your best option. The motor builders have their own little setups that work for alot less cost. On the smaller tracks the crate motor will work but on the bigger tracks you can't out run horsepower. Good luck,

[Imhere]

I have a progressive spec with only 150 laps on it you can have for $14000. Or you can have the whole car ready to race for $22000
Heres the link
http://www.realracinusa.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=23110

[EJC Engines]

for 11500 you could have a brand new motor for a super latemodel and run up front with a good handeling car and a good driver so many people pver pay at some of these big machanie shops because there name is known in the class like 50 60 grand for a super motor thats crazy i can have a new hendricks motor at my door for 50 grand

[EJC Engines]

victory 10 i gave you the price for the pro late motor too see how much alot of guys are paying its crazy